Paint Shop Pro question...

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Paint Shop Pro question...

Postby Alschroeder on Fri Nov 10, 2006 2:07 pm

Okay, I'm still mastering Photoshop, but I can make Paint Shop Pro sit up and beg...what sort of problem are you having, Linkare? What was that about size of the brushes?

I currently draw MM like this.

Scan the picture. (Well, D'Oh!) 300 DPI.

Grayscale the picture.

Darken the picture with curves and gamma contrast, then get rid of much of the "noise" with threshold. I then take it off grayscale and back to full color again.

Then I move it up to a level, and then make a mask of that. I darken the lines still further, spraying them with the paintbrush tool, erasing with the eraser any extraneous lines.

Then I do another level and fill in any lines I might have broken, or that need straightening, or need further definition, with the line tool, usually set eight pixels wide (remember, it's still pretty big here.)

Then I merge the two levels, and give it a guassian blur of 3.50, which makes for it look far less scratchy. (I started doing this about a tenth of the way through the "Lost in Thought" story arc, and I think the difference is excellent, making it look MUCH less scratchy.) I reduce the size by 50%, and then do a duplicate of the first level to make it darker and more robust, and then I do a third level "underneath" called background. I used to different levels for all my colors, but that was too time-and-computerspace-wasting. I just do the main colors on the background screen. (I tend to use the line tool, now with the pixel length to one) and I personally like to use gradiants, which give it a more lifelike feel, even though it can expand the size of the artwork...

Then I put another level between the merged lineart and its duplicate, which I call "shadows". I set the level to "multiply" and "30%" and use a blue gradiant, with the darkest blue at one end of my pallette, and the third-darkest blue, and use the line tool to put in shadows.

I then do another level, called "overlay", and set the level to "overlay" on properties at 50% and use the paintbrush (set at 25 pixels and 13% hardness) with total black for both colors, to add some further dark areas. Then, on the same overlay level, I use the lightest yellow I have and white and then go through and put in color highlights.

I then reduce the image so it's 400 pixels high. (Remember, I do one panel at a time.) I darken the lineart a little more with gamma correction set to 22, and duplicate the duplicate level to make the lines more pronounced. I blur the shadows and overlay levels with guassian blur, set to 1.66, since few shadows are pencil-thin between light and black.

Then I make a duplicate of the background level, which is the bottom level, and bring it to the top. I set that level to "color" which colors all the colors below in shadings of the primary colors.

Then I merge all the levels together, and then create a new level to put the writing on, and after I finish that, a panel in between the art and the writing to put the speech bubbles on.

It sounds like a lot of work, but it's actually only about an hour to an hour-and-a-half per panel.

---Al
http://mindmistress.comicgenesis.com--MINDMISTRESS
---Think the superhero genre is mined out? Think all the superhero ideas have been done?
Think again.
Also check out http://www.webcomicsnation.com/alschroeder/flickerflame/series.php--Flickerflame</a>
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Postby Linkara on Fri Nov 10, 2006 7:42 pm

Hmm... A lot of that I understood, a lot I didn't. ^_~ Still, it's useful information and may come in handy for my own drawing!

What I was referring to brush size was something I noticed in Photoshop as opposed to Paint Shop Pro. The default airbrush on PSP is more pixelated and smaller in its design, meaning that if you zoom in enough you can see the actual outline of it and how much size it takes up per pixel, whereas in Photshop the appearance is just a circle. The lines in Photoshop tend to come out much cleaner, then, when I'm doing inking/shading in it.
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