How the FUCK do you ink?
- Siabur
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So the way I ink is wrong then?That guy wrote:Just to be contrary - you can't be so attached to the pencils that you won't draw over them. It's part of being bold and having confidence in your pen. Light boards are nice, but it's much harder to pen an image properly if it's on another sheet. If you're absolutely afraid you'll ruin whatever good thing you had in the pencil version and you just want to experiment with inking, try this: scan the pencil version, tint it blue and lighten it, then print out copies to play with. The copies won't matter and you can scan whatever inked results you get with minimul difficulty eliminating the blue behind them.siabur wrote:When using pens, I use a light box and trace the pencils. Can't come to inking over pencils directly.Otherwise I just use a graphic tablet.
Otherwise I really do suggest light pencils (or blue pencils for the reason given above) and pens on the same sheet. Just easier and a better look in the end, in my experience.
- Warofwinds
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I ink with a lightbox...I figure if I want to be bold with a pen, I can be bold mulitple times 'cause I'm tracing (Bold to me = lots of mistakes and do-overs). Also, a quick fix of masking tape keeps the page from moving beneath. I prefer the lightbox method, though I am considering picking up some blue pencils. Fact is though, I'm just NOT that good at art. I screw up lots, and I'd rather not screw up on the original. 

- Vulpeslibertas
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- That guy
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Yes. And if you keep doing it you'll go blind. For shame.siabur wrote:So the way I ink is wrong then?That guy wrote:Just to be contrary - you can't be so attached to the pencils that you won't draw over them...blah blah blah other crap I said...siabur wrote:When using pens, I use a light box and trace the pencils. Can't come to inking over pencils directly.Otherwise I just use a graphic tablet.

Of course it isn't wrong. There are a few reasons I don't recommend it for Shishio, though.
1) Confidence is extremely improtant, especially for someone just starting out. Being unwilling to ruin a pencil version ties you to drawings instead of learning from them and moving on.
2) Learning one new skill is hard enough without learning two at once. Using a light board has nuances that he might have fun with later, but for now drawing directly on paper is step #1.
3) A good light board is either expensive or home-made. Home-made boards require materials and time to create, which is like creating a new project to get in the way before he can do his current one.
Again, nothing wrong with lightboards, just several benefits to doing without them for now.
- Siabur
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I've been using light boxes for 20 plus years. Mostly due to my dislike of drawing with pens and inks. Some people like paint, I'm a pencil pusher. Not to mention back in the day before scanners and easy access to copiers, good old fashioned monk like tracing was the way to go.
I've used the blue pencils and inked over it. I have books on materials to use. It came down to I really don't like ink and the mess it makes on screwing up. I haven't inked something on paper in a year. It's all done on the computer now. Still use my .07 and #2 pencils for basic penciling.
I also built one in to the custom desk I made so it's there to use, but with my new scanner and wacom I rarely use it. Tracing is an easy way to train yourself when using a wacom btw. But in all seriousness, find a way that you like that works for you. In other forums and topics I find inking can get as heated as a good mac/pc debate.
Light boxes are great for trying new methods without having to drawsomething first. I would use different inks, colors, sizes, brushes, pens, and methods to be able to get a compareson. Whatever makes you comfortable and happy with your final product is really all that matters. Expriment and practice my friend.
I've used the blue pencils and inked over it. I have books on materials to use. It came down to I really don't like ink and the mess it makes on screwing up. I haven't inked something on paper in a year. It's all done on the computer now. Still use my .07 and #2 pencils for basic penciling.
I also built one in to the custom desk I made so it's there to use, but with my new scanner and wacom I rarely use it. Tracing is an easy way to train yourself when using a wacom btw. But in all seriousness, find a way that you like that works for you. In other forums and topics I find inking can get as heated as a good mac/pc debate.
Light boxes are great for trying new methods without having to drawsomething first. I would use different inks, colors, sizes, brushes, pens, and methods to be able to get a compareson. Whatever makes you comfortable and happy with your final product is really all that matters. Expriment and practice my friend.
I started with microns, but found that the little tips would get dull rather quickly. I always worked small, so i ended up spending a fortune on new micons when they felt dull (regardless how long i used them) So i switched to a steel tipped tech pen (.13 and .18, if they only made a .15...) some people love them and some people hate them, but they work for me. they do, however require a lot of cleaning and upkeep.
i always transfer pencils to clean paper (drafting paper, but i don't see the issue with a lightbox? it would be quicker), i never ink on the same page i drew, not because i'm attached to the pencils, but the surface of the paper gets abused and damaged the more you erase and redraw, which makes the ink bleed and the lines look fuzzy.
Another option would be crowquill, but that has a much longer learning curve, i never figured out how to not make them tear the paper and blot like hell.
i always transfer pencils to clean paper (drafting paper, but i don't see the issue with a lightbox? it would be quicker), i never ink on the same page i drew, not because i'm attached to the pencils, but the surface of the paper gets abused and damaged the more you erase and redraw, which makes the ink bleed and the lines look fuzzy.
Another option would be crowquill, but that has a much longer learning curve, i never figured out how to not make them tear the paper and blot like hell.
always the best advice.siabur wrote:Experiment and practice my friend.
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- Mercury Hat
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Used to be, back in the days of just Xerox machines, that non-photo blue pencils were used for corrections, scribbles, and that sort of thing because a copy machine won't pick it up. These days with computers, you can use red, blue, or green and filter them out via channels, but most people use and recommend blue just because it used to be the standard. Also often times, unless you're pressing very hard with the blue, you can scan the final drawing in black and white mode and it won't be picked up at all.
- Orinocou
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Ah, I see. I suspected that it had something to do with an old standard.Mercury Hat wrote:Used to be, back in the days of just Xerox machines, that non-photo blue pencils were used for corrections, scribbles, and that sort of thing because a copy machine won't pick it up. These days with computers, you can use red, blue, or green and filter them out via channels, but most people use and recommend blue just because it used to be the standard. Also often times, unless you're pressing very hard with the blue, you can scan the final drawing in black and white mode and it won't be picked up at all.
Do you know if you can do that same trick with a red pencil, for example? Without modifying the drawing using channels or anything?Mercury Hat wrote:Also often times, unless you're pressing very hard with the blue, you can scan the final drawing in black and white mode and it won't be picked up at all.
This is getting pretty detailed, but I'm just curious for curiosity's sake.
- Fabio Ciccone
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I'm using a wacom tablet and Photoshop these days, and I'm enjoying the upgrade this did to my artwork.
This is what I mean:
Made with the tablet
http://magiasebarbaridades.com/tiras/re ... meb381.gif
Made a couple of days later, with a pen
http://magiasebarbaridades.com/tiras/re ... meb382.gif
The precision level is amazing when you can give a 800% zoom in!
This is what I mean:
Made with the tablet
http://magiasebarbaridades.com/tiras/re ... meb381.gif
Made a couple of days later, with a pen
http://magiasebarbaridades.com/tiras/re ... meb382.gif
The precision level is amazing when you can give a 800% zoom in!
Last edited by Fabio Ciccone on Wed Aug 08, 2007 2:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- That guy
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Ack! Can't understand - Must... learn... Portuguese.Fabio Ciccone wrote:I'm using a wacom tablet and Photoshop these days, and I'm enjoying the upgrade this did to my artwork.
This is what I mean: (LINKS)

- Fabio Ciccone
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Wow, thanks a lotThat guy wrote:Ack! Can't understand - Must... learn... Portuguese.Fabio Ciccone wrote:I'm using a wacom tablet and Photoshop these days, and I'm enjoying the upgrade this did to my artwork.
This is what I mean: (LINKS)Must admit, the line quality is a bit sharper in the wacom version (though not so dramatically different anyone would notice). I'm most impressed at your consistency from one medium to the other. If you hadn't told me I would have assumed both were done the same way, which shows you're as comfortable on a digital canvas as you are on a physical one.

And don't mind the Portuguese... in some months the English version will be on... Patience, young grasshopper!
- Mercury Hat
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I've never tried it with a red pencil, but if you have one lying around you can always scan it and see. I know that blue will hardly be picked up on greyscale and will be pretty much ignored on b&w scan.orinocou wrote:Ah, I see. I suspected that it had something to do with an old standard.Mercury Hat wrote:Used to be, back in the days of just Xerox machines, that non-photo blue pencils were used for corrections, scribbles, and that sort of thing because a copy machine won't pick it up. These days with computers, you can use red, blue, or green and filter them out via channels, but most people use and recommend blue just because it used to be the standard. Also often times, unless you're pressing very hard with the blue, you can scan the final drawing in black and white mode and it won't be picked up at all.
Do you know if you can do that same trick with a red pencil, for example? Without modifying the drawing using channels or anything?Mercury Hat wrote:Also often times, unless you're pressing very hard with the blue, you can scan the final drawing in black and white mode and it won't be picked up at all.
This is getting pretty detailed, but I'm just curious for curiosity's sake.
- Geekblather
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Inking with nibs, I found, was an excellent way to practice. The nib (though sometimes finicky if you go the wrong way) provides enough resistance to keep your lines fairly smooth until you get used to working with line quality and shapes and things. After that I switched to brushes (before getting the tablet).
Of course, now I do the whole strip on tablet.
Of course, now I do the whole strip on tablet.
- Vulpeslibertas
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I love inking with brush and pen, but my last nib died long ago and I haven't been to the art store to get some more. My brushes are still lively as ever, though.geekblather wrote:Inking with nibs, I found, was an excellent way to practice. The nib (though sometimes finicky if you go the wrong way) provides enough resistance to keep your lines fairly smooth until you get used to working with line quality and shapes and things. After that I switched to brushes (before getting the tablet).
I ink my entire strip on a single 8.5" x 11" peice of paper with about .5" margins all around. I can't "sketch" for the life of me, therefore it always turns into a "drawing".
I for one, like my drawings and refuse to do the ink+erase method.
I use trace paper. That way I can re-trace things if needed, or slightly rotate the trace paper to make a better angle for an arm or something else.
Perhaps a bit amatuerish, but then again, I've only begun working with webcomics about a year ago... and before that I had not drawn for like 8 years really.
ANYway, I ink with a .03 Millenium Ink Pen. That is my standard size. I use a .01 for smal details. if I do "zoom-in"s I'll go for a .05 ---- that is for my PSI comic.
For my Jenny Everywhere comic, it's a different size. Infact it's the entire size of my scanner's scanning area. I have a larger pad for drawing and larger trace paper... so I draw larger... and I tend to Draw in .05 with .03 for details, and .08 for zooms.
I for one, like my drawings and refuse to do the ink+erase method.
I use trace paper. That way I can re-trace things if needed, or slightly rotate the trace paper to make a better angle for an arm or something else.
Perhaps a bit amatuerish, but then again, I've only begun working with webcomics about a year ago... and before that I had not drawn for like 8 years really.
ANYway, I ink with a .03 Millenium Ink Pen. That is my standard size. I use a .01 for smal details. if I do "zoom-in"s I'll go for a .05 ---- that is for my PSI comic.
For my Jenny Everywhere comic, it's a different size. Infact it's the entire size of my scanner's scanning area. I have a larger pad for drawing and larger trace paper... so I draw larger... and I tend to Draw in .05 with .03 for details, and .08 for zooms.
Fesworks Hub Site: http://www.Fesworks.com
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I do that as well, when I want to get out a comic quickly, or it's just one big panel which I don't want to use the good paper for. At 3 1/4" x 10", I can squeeze two comics on one piece of paper (which is card stock I get at Wal-Mart). Takes me a couple of hours to knock one out at that size, whereas standard working size (4"x13") takes anywhere from 4-6 hours to complete, yet yields better artistic results.fesworks wrote:I ink my entire strip on a single 8.5" x 11" peice of paper with about .5" margins all around. I can't "sketch" for the life of me, therefore it always turns into a "drawing".
I need to get some pens in the .03 size, but the only sizes I can find are the .01 and .05.ANYway, I ink with a .03 Millenium Ink Pen. That is my standard size. I use a .01 for smal details. if I do "zoom-in"s I'll go for a .05 ---- that is for my PSI comic.